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Your Child's Clothes Are Regulated Very Differently in Europe. Here's Why That Matters
I didn't build Fig because I wanted to sell clothing. I built it because, as a lawyer, I came to understand that the system meant to protect our children from harmful exposures in textiles was falling short — and that the EU had already figured out what we hadn't. This is the story of what I found in the fine print, and why it changed how I shop for my own kids.
By Steffi, Founder of Fig For Kids
As a lawyer, I spent years reading regulations. Fine print is my native language. But nothing stopped me in my tracks quite like the moment I compared what the European Union restricts in children's textiles versus what the United States allows.
The gap isn't a technicality. It's enormous. And most parents have no idea it exists.
Two Different Standards for the Same Child
The EU operates under a framework called REACH — the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals. It restricts or outright bans hundreds of substances in products that come into contact with skin, including textiles. The philosophy behind it is called the precautionary principle: if there is credible evidence that a chemical could cause harm, you restrict it before waiting for proof of widespread damage.
The United States takes the opposite approach. Here, a chemical is generally considered acceptable until there is enough documented harm to justify regulation. The burden of proof falls not on the manufacturer to prove safety, but on regulators — and the public — to prove danger.
For most product categories, this difference is a policy debate. For children's clothing, bedding, and everyday textiles, it's personal.
What's Actually in the Fabric
Children spend more time in contact with textiles than almost any other product category. They wear soft clothes all day. They sleep in sheets for ten to twelve hours a night. They mouth their stuffed animals. Their skin — thinner and more permeable than adult skin — absorbs more of what it touches.
The chemicals of concern aren't exotic or obscure. They include:
- Formaldehyde, used as a wrinkle-resistant finish, classified as a known carcinogen
- PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), used for stain resistance, linked to hormone disruption and immune system effects
- Azo dyes, used for color, which can break down into aromatic amines associated with cancer
- Phthalates, used to soften plastics in prints and appliqués, linked to endocrine disruption
The EU restricts or bans all of these in textile products that come into contact with skin, including those made for children. In the US, federal limits are far more permissive — or nonexistent. A handful of states have started to fill the gap (California and New York have both passed PFAS bans in apparel that began taking effect in 2025), but most American families are still relying on what manufacturers volunteer to do.
The Question I Couldn't Stop Asking
Once I understood this, I couldn't look at a children's clothing tag the same way. And I started asking a question that led me to build Fig:
If European children are protected from these exposures, why aren't American children?
The answer isn't that European scientists know something American scientists don't. The research is the same. The answer is that the regulatory frameworks reflect different values about who bears the burden of proof — and different levels of lobbying influence from the chemical and textile industries.
That's a legal and political problem. But the solution, while we wait for policy to catch up, is a consumer one.
What You Can Do Right Now
You don't need a law degree to protect your kids from this. But you do need to know what to look for.
Look for GOTS certification (Global Organic Textile Standard). This is the gold standard, and it's what we use at Fig. GOTS is stricter than almost anything required by law. It bans formaldehyde, azo dyes that release carcinogenic amines, heavy metals, and PVC (which is where phthalates typically live). It also covers the entire supply chain — the organic fiber, the processing, the dyes, the wastewater, and the conditions of the people making the clothes. When you see GOTS on a label, you're looking at a product that's been audited from field to finished garment.
OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 is also a strong signal. It's a rigorous third-party certification that tests finished products for more than 1,000 harmful substances, including many that are legal in the US but restricted in the EU. Its strictest tier — Product Class 1 — applies specifically to products for babies and children up to age 3. OEKO-TEX is focused on the final product rather than the full supply chain, which is why we layer it with GOTS rather than choosing between them.
Be skeptical of "natural" without certification. Cotton, bamboo, and other natural fibers can still be treated with harmful chemicals during processing and finishing. The fiber itself isn't the whole story.
Ask about dyes and finishes. "Wrinkle-free," "stain-resistant," and "color-stay" finishes are often where the chemical risk lives. If a brand can't tell you what's in their finish treatments, that's worth noting.
Prioritize what touches skin longest. You don't have to overhaul everything at once. Start with sleepwear and bedding — the items your child is in contact with for the most hours.
Why This Is What Fig Is About
I didn't build Fig because I wanted to sell clothing. I built it because I came to understand, through a legal lens, that the system designed to protect our children from harmful exposures in textiles was falling short — and that parents deserved both the information and the options to do something about it.
The EU figured this out. We can too.
In the meantime, we're here.
Fig was founded on the belief that children's products should meet the highest safety standards — not the minimum legal ones. Every Fig piece is GOTS certified. Learn more about how we source and certify our products on Our Impact page.